Cleveland

When contemplating a waterfront getaway, don't overlook Cleveland. If you're seeking palm trees, you'll have to follow the Cleveland Indians to their baseball spring training headquarters in Arizona. Other than that, you can have it all in this cosmopolitan city on “America's North Coast.”

Like many great industrial cities, Cleveland began to rust in the 1970s. Since then, hip institutions such as the Rock and Roll Museum and the Great Lakes Science Center have helped energize the waterfront. Downtown has been revitalized with modern towers, and the lakeside districts across the Cayahoga are flourishing once again. Immigrants have left their mark with cuisine and the city encourages the many festivals around town that celebrate Italian, Greek, Irish and Slavic cultures. Beautifully restored period buildings grace several historic neighborhoods such as Ohio City and Shaker Heights.

Cleveland is known for its world-class arts scene. The city can boast a sprawling theater district, a ballet, an opera, and one of America's Big Five orchestras. The Cleveland Museum of Art and the Museum of Contemporary Art house impressive collections, and the Cleveland International Film Festival each March has screened cutting-edge films each since 1977.

Getting here

From Cleveland Hopkins International Airport, the RTA trains will whisk you downtown in 30 minutes. Taxis, hotel shuttles and rental cars are other options.

Getting around

Most of the city’s major sights can be reached via the Greater Cleveland Regional Transit Authority’s three light-rail lines or its system of buses. Check RTA for information. If you’re covering a wide area, you might prefer to drive.

Neighborhoods

Much of Cleveland gay nightlife takes place on or within a few blocks of the long stretch of Detroit Avenue that runs parallel to, and close by Lake Erie. The trip begins at the Detroit-Superior Bridge crossing the Cayahoga, connecting downtown Cleveland to Ohio City. At the far end is Lakewood, with the Beck Center for the Arts, many stores, cafes and restaurants, and more than a few gay households. In the middle is the Detroit Shoreway neighborhood with it's Gordon Square Arts District giving new life to this diverse community.

Ohio City was once an independent township on the west bank of the Cuyahoga, an economic rival to Cleveland as the two cities developed. This culturally rich neighborhood of historic homes is now the site of several gay bars and restaurants, and one of the two gay bathhouses in town. The Westside Market here, dating from 1840, is easily spotted with it's 137 foot clock tower landmark and has over 100 market vendors of great ethnic diversity. The nearby eight mile stretch of Lorain Avenue to Westown Center is a relief from modern retail trends, with old-fashioned charm, restaurants, markets, entertainment, New Age emporiums, and antique stores without fancy price tags.

Downtown Cleveland no longer has specifically gay bars, but there's plenty to do with seven theaters at Playhouse Square; the Cleveland Public Library boasting close to ten million items; the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Great Lakes Science Center; several indoor shopping malls, and many restaurants; plus big league sports at Browns Stadium, the Indians at Progressive Field, and the Cavaliers at Q Arena.

University Circle is home to the Cleveland Museum of Art with over 30,000 works covering 5,000 years of civilization; the Museum of Natural History and the Botanical Garden. The nearby Museum of Contemporary Art with it's impressive collection, is constructing a brand new landmark building in University Circle.

Other notable gay enclaves are found to the east of downtown, out on St Clair, and on Hamilton Avenue, where a big bathhouse, accommodations and nightclub complex has transformed the old Greyhound Bus terminal building into a gay destination of note.

Media

The Gay People’s Chronicle covers news and culture for Cleveland and the entire Ohio region. Outlines Magazine covers Akron, Cleveland and other Ohio cities in their print edition with local listings and good maps - look for the return of their website soon. Spangles is an online resource for area gay culture, art and nightlife.

Cleveland.com is an informative website about Cleveland from the Sun News and Plain Dealer. The Cleveland Scene is the weekly alternative paper good for listings of the music, arts and film scenes, and local events calendars.

Famous offspring

Screen stars Bob Hope and Paul Newman were raised in the Cleveland area. The comics and cartoons of R Crumb and Bill Waterson (the latter of Calvin & Hobbs fame), and works by '60s counterculture poet DA Levy were penned here. Superman originated in Cleveland in the 1932 collaborations of Jerry Siegel and Canadian Joe Shuster. Musicians Pere Ubu, Tracy Chapman, Nine Inch Nails, Filter, Rude Boys & Bone Thugs-n-Harmony were also spawned by Cleveland.

Historical nugget

The city took the name of General Moses Cleveland, who surveyed the region then known as Western Reserve in 1796. He laid the plans for Public Square, still the city center, on the bluffs above the Cuyahoga River. The first settlements, however, were down in 'the Flats,' an area that later became the source of great wealth when John D Rockefeller chose it as the location of his first refinery, launching the Standard Oil empire. The steel mills that followed further filled the city's coffers and attracted multitudes of workers.

Accommodations

Bourbon House (6116 Franklin Blvd; 216-939-0535) turn of the 20th Century neighborhood grand house on Millionaires Row. Serene, antique-filled, formal breakfast settings, welcoming fireplace, comfortable and casual at the same time. Breakfast served 'til late on weekends for those staying out late.

Clifford House (1810 West 28th; 216-589-0121), Queen Anne-style brick beauty, comfortable Ohio City B&B within walking distance of restaurants and bars -- easy access to downtown.

At the west end of the Shoreway, Greystone B&B (10405 Lake; 216-939-0405), near Edgewater Park on Lake Erie, direct highway access to downtown.

Stone Gables B&B (3806 Franklin Blvd; 216-961-4654), five guestroom Ohio City gem, plush comforts, gourmet breakfasts and location that's perfect to access local restaurants, gay clubs and downtown attractions.

Check our Cleveland map & listings section for links for these and other area accomodations.

West side bars

Bottoms Up (1572 W 117th St) young dance crowd, Thursday Boy Bar strippers, drag shows, Latin Wednesdays, special parties including underwear nights.

Cocktails Cleveland (9208 Detroit), welcoming clubhouse feel, karaoke, movie nights, strippers, smoking patio. Their leather bar Daddy's has required dress code Saturdays, but less strict on Fridays.

Man's World (2909 Detroit), big complex of gay bars, restaurants and shops. The three bars are decked out post-industrial salvage style: A Man's World, daily from 7am (Sunday noon), free Sunday hot dog buffets; the Shed, daily from 7pm, pool tables, Sunday country/western dancing; weekends downstairs Crossover leather/uniform and fetish men's bar. Burton's BBQ (1432 W 29th) dinner ribs, chops, chicken, sandwiches and sides -- ice cream too.

Ohio City Cafe & Grille (1406 W 29th St) open daily, Sundays from 8am, all others from 7am, breakfast/brunch, soups, salads, dinner and snacks. The Dean Rufus House of Fun (1422 W 29th St) also here, see shopping below.

Twist (11633 Clifton), bar, comfy basement cocktail lounge, area's best DJs, dancing. Gay party-central with summertime sidewalk tables, expecially for Dancing in the Streets, and Clifton Arts & Musicfest events.

Union Cleveland (2814 Detroit) music videos and gay TV, dinner and snacks, pool tables, karaoke, games, internet, and all-male revues. Nightclub Bounce (2814 Detroit) in the same complex has weekend dancing, blackout and steam parties, porn star guestss, women's nights and drag shows.

Other west-side watering holes include: ABC Tavern (1872 W 25th), mixed cocktail bar with food; Hawk (11217 Detroit) men's neighborhodd drinking bar; and Now That's Class (11213 Detroit Ave) next to Hawk, serving Mexican and other food, with cult movies, live music, comedy and quirky special nights.

Downtown and East Side bars

Leather Stallion Saloon (2205 E St Clair), long-time men's favorite for drinking, cruising, leather and bear club events. DJs play everything from disco to country.

Mean Bull (1313 E 26th St) dance club and lounge attached to Flex bathhouse and hotel complex, music from top DJs, shows, hot dancers.

At various locations around the city Gay Guys Happy Hour third-Friday monthly events for 300 or so men to convene at otherwise straight clubs. See website for events and venues.

Restaurants

See above A Man's Country complex for their two restaurants, Burton's BBQ and Ohio City Cafe.

Gay-friendly Happy Dog (5801 Detroit Ave) has hot dogs and veggie sausages, a huge range of toppings, plus falafel, tater tots and fries, plus live music Fridays through Sundays. Serving over 75 kinds of beer, including two dozen on tap.

Union Cleveland (2814 Detroit) serves daily from 5pm for dinner, Sunday brunch. Get online here, play pool, or watch music videos and queer TV programs.

The Nautica Queen offers dinner cruises on Lake Erie and the Cayahoga River.

Check our Cleveland map & listings/restaurants for a full list of restaurant options with locations and web links.

Saunas & playgrounds

Flex Cleveland (2600 Hamilton), world's largest bathhouse hotel, 16 quiet rooms, 18 suites with private baths. Also all-weather outdoor pool, massage, and cafe; state-of-the-art gym, indoor swimming pool, media room, sauna, steamroom, and whirlpool. Open 24/7 for men 18 and over, free and secure parking.

Club Cleveland (3219 Detroit) closed this past year. Check out the other clubs in Columbus, Indianapolis and six other cities.

Shopping

A first stop for gay visitors, Body Language (11424 Lorain at West 115th), gay magazines, books, gifts and erotic items. Open late.

Dean Rufus House of Fun (1422 West 29th at Detroit), within the Man's World complex, designer clothing, underwear, jocks and accessories; DVDs and toys. Open late.

- Jeff Balk