In the heart of the Centro Historico, just a few blocks northeast of the core area of gay nightlife. Built in 1610 the building became the city's first hotel 400 years ago. A complete renovation took place in 1980; with other modern amenities since. Adding to the atmosphere, amidst the old columns, piano music can be heard each afternoon. Some guest reviews complain about "noise" from the next door disco club late into the night - hardly a problem if you're out on the town yourself.
The elevator, gorgeously ancient, is said to be "temperamental." But getting stuck might be okay for awhile if the operator on duty (do they have one?) is a hunk. If not, you might admire the wrought iron contraption from the outside, and get some exercise on the stairs. Room rates are low by US/Canadian/Euro standards, even for their penthouse suite. Breakfast buffets and traditional meals, platillos típicos mexicanos, are served in the Restaurante Molino Rojo. Cocktails may be enjoyed at their Lobby Bar.