Montreal

Montreal has a reputation for decadence among gays in the northeastern US, but that's not exactly right. This is not a hedonistic capital like Rio or New Orleans. Rather, gay life here is very urban, in a pre-gentrification way. Montreal is what New York might have become if that city had found a way to lower crime without pricing the Village People out -- that is, if the Village People had all got iPhones and developed a fondness for hockey and karaoke.

The largest city in Quebec still has a large "gay ghetto," full of specialized bars that manage to stay in business even without overflow crowds and $12 drinks. There are a number of bathhouses competing for business, with theme nights and spanking-new equipment and several strip clubs catering to various tastes. Downtown, there are grand department stores and plenty of bookstores, both things that are quickly disappearing from major cities in the US.
Though everyone seems connected to the web here, the gay scene is not yet dominated by Craigslist and Grindr: it's still considered good form to chat guys up in a bar or on the street. Enjoy it while it lasts!

 

Getting here
Montreal-Trudeau Airport, about 20 km (or 12 miles) southwest of the city, is not served directly by the Metro system, but an STM bus (route 747) will take you to downtown, 24/7. There's also a regular bus (route 204) to the Dorval bus / train terminus. A taxi to downtown costs a fixed fare of C$38.

The Aerobus shuttle is an easy and inexpensive option at C$16. It leaves every half hour in the daytime and drops you off at the central bus station, which happens to be one block from the Gay Village.

 

Getting around
Central Montreal is quite walkable; a stroll from Campus in Le Village to La Baie department store downtown takes about 20 minutes. For street addresses, remember to distinguish between "Est" and "Ouest" on major thoroughfares.

The Metro is clean and reliable, and it operates until about 12:30am. Single fares are C$2.75; three-day passes, C$14. But one of the best ways to see montreal is by bike. Montreal has many bike paths throughout the city and along the river and canals. The BIXI , Montreal's public bike-sharing system, has stations on almost every block. Rent a bike for C$5/day from any station and return it to any station.

 

Neighborhoods
The Gay Village, or simply Le Village, is the obvious destination for gay travelers, but if in Montreal for more than a day, you should take advantage of the citywide gay-friendliness.
Old Montreal. The riverfront district is undeniably touristy; still, it's a must-see for art gallery and architecture fans.
The Plateau, with Boulevard St-Laurent at its heart, has the most vibrant night/weekend scene in the city. There aren't so many specifically gay places, but there's plenty of eye candy on the streets.

 

in focus:
Montreal's 'meet' market
There are great restaurants to experience in Montreal, but not everyone wants to devote half their travel budget to eating out. You might want to save your dough for drinks, cover charges and maybe a lap dance or two.
Your best bet for food is one of the public markets scattered across the city, and the biggest is Marche Jean-Talon (7070 Henri-Julien Street; 514-937-7754; marche-jean-talon.com), about a three-minute walk from the Metro stop of the same name.
The market is open from 7am to at least 5pm on all but four days of the year. You can almost make a meal out of sampling the fruits and vegetables; the competition here is fierce enough that most sellers put out sample plates of their wares. For lunch, there are small cafes, or you can snack on walking-around food like elk on a stick. Jean-Talon also has specialty shops for meat, fish, cheese, pastries and ice cream, plus a vendor of fresh olives with orange rinds and other unexpected stuffings.
If it all seems overwhelming, ask for advice from any of the healthy-looking boys doing their weekly shopping. You might even be able to do some trading -- say, a juicy cantaloupe for a nice bunch of asparagus.
A great picnic spot is 3,600-acre Jarry Park, a short walk from the market (four blocks down Rue Jean-Talon, in the opposite direction from the subway stop, then a right on Boulevard St-Laurent and up four blocks). In warm weather, you can always scope out joggers and sunbathers hanging out by the artificial lake. There are softball and soccer fields, tennis and basketball courts and a public pool -- all almost entirely tourist-free.

 

Excursions

Septentrion B & B (Leseptentrion.qc.ca) in the Laurentians, is Quebec's only five-star gay inn. Les Chutes (waterfalls) de Ste- Marguerite du Lac Masson, are nearby in Ste Adele.

Tremblant (Tremblant.ca) is a ski resort 90 minutes north of the city. In the summertime the great expanses of waterways are great for an odyssey by canoe.

For a night in Quebec City two hours from Montreal, Le Coureur des Bois (15rue Ste. Ursule) is a Franco-Canadian gem.

Museums

Montreal Museum of Fine Arts / Musee des beaux-arts de Montreal (1379-1380 Sherbrooke W) is the grand dame of Canadian museums.

Museum of Contemporary Art / Musee d'Art Contemporain de Montreal (185 Ste-Catherine W) opposite Complexe Desjardins, has many exhibits of interest.

Notre-Dame Basilica (116 Notre-Dame) is a 350 year-old neo-gothic basilica where Celine Dion got married.

Pointe-a- Calliere (350 Place Royale) showcases archaeology and history in Old Montreal.

Biodome de Montreal (4777 Pierre-de- Coubertin) illustrates the continent's four ecosystems beneath the dome.

Local media
The free monthly magazine Fugues is the best source for gay events and attractions in the city. Almost entirely in French, it has key features (like the bar listings) with English translations, and the not-so-subtle ads are easy to figure out. Read cover-to-cover their online pdf editions.

2B Magazine is an English language magazine from the same publisher as the French-language RG Magazine and Etre. They also publish the excellent Le Guide GQ -downloadable as a pdf file - in both French and English.

QueerMontreal is Montreal’s gay & lesbian online guide with searchable maps; bilingual, all inclusive, up to date.

The Hour, a free weekly in English, has general arts info as well as alternative-press news.
For "hard" news of interest to the gay community, log on to the Montreal section of Xtra.ca.

For info about activities in Montreal's Gay Village, click for the website of Un Monde Un Village.

GayRadioBec.com is Quebec's French-language gay internet radio service.
 

Accommodations: Hotels

Abri du Voyageur Hotel (9 Ste-Catherine; 514-849- 2992) appeals to the budget-conscious traveler, also has efficiency suites.

Hotel Bourbon (1574 Ste-Catherine E; 514-523-4679) 31 rooms and 5 suites.

Hotel Dorion (1477 Dorion; 514-523- 2427) convenient to Bar Taboo with overnight or short-term rooms, each with private bath, some with Jacuzzis and fridge.

Hotel Felix (1274 Ste-Catherine E; 514-525-2424) across from Beaudry Metro, some rooms have hot tubs, outdoor terrace.

Hotel Gouverneur (1415 St-Hubert; 514- 842-4881), large high-rise chain hotel with indoor pool, above the Place Dupuis shopping arcade.

Hotel Manoir Des Alpes (1245 St-Andre; 514- 845-9803) French/Portuguese flavor, late continental breakfast, modern comforts at modest rates, free parking.

Hotel St- Andre (1285 St-Andre; 514- 849-7070) hotel with modern decor, moderate prices, in-room continental breakfast, free parking.

Hotel Ste-Catherine (1674 Ste-Catherine; 514-527-4440), spacious and inexpensive basic rooms by the hour or the day at the heart of the Gay Village.

Hotel Stay Centreville (910 Blvd Maisonneuve E) modern, urban renovated en suite rooms, 32 inch TVs, breakfast, Wi-Fi, in Gay Village near Berri-Uqam Metro and bus station.

Accommodations: Bed & breakfasts
At these B&Bs, most hosts and guests are gay. Full breakfast is the norm. Find links and more options at our map & listings tab.

Absolument Montreal (1790 Amherst; 514-223- 0017) hip urban B&B, film-themed rooms, luxury amenities, gourmet breakfast until noon, all-season garden hot tub.

Alexandre Logan (1870) B & B (1631 Alexandre de Seve; 514- 598-0555), centrally sited prestigious house restored to original splendour, gourmet kitchen, tranquil garden with sundeck and shower.

Aubergell B&B (L'Un et L'Autre) (1641 Amherst; 514- 597-0878), affordable rates, cozy rooms, underfoot comfort with heated floors and plush carpets, semi-private & private bath.

BBV Bed & Breakfast Du Village (1279 Montcalm; 514- 522-4771), great values, private baths, interior parking, engaging owners, in the heart of the gay village.

Belles Vues B&B (1407 Panet #2; 514-521- 9998) central location with great views above Second Cup, large rooms, home comforts, apartment-sized suites.

Escogriffe B & B (1264 Wolfe; 514-523-4800) elegant Gay Village guest house, full American breakfasts, affectionate cats and smart dog, rooftop terrace.

Le Chasseur (1567 St-Andre, 514-521-2238) relaxed and very affordable, shared or private bath by Baudry Metro station in Gay Village, also with private apartment.

La Conciergerie (1019 St-Hubert; 514-289-9297) indoor whirlpool, roof deck, cruisy gym, glass-enclosed breakfast nook overlooks garden.

La Loggia (1637 Amherst; 514-524-2493) B&B/Gite with urban garden, includes workshop brimming with works of Canadian artists.

Maison Des Jardins (1365 Logan) gay men only relaxed B&B at heart of Village. Generous breakfast, year-round outdoor spa and massage.

NuZone B&B (1729, rue Saint-Hubert; 514-524-5292), central, men-only, clothing-optional, comfortable.

Ruta Bagage (1345 Ste-Rose; 514-598-1586) grand Victorian on quiet street, huge windows, full breakfast, sunny terrace.

Sir Montcalm (1455 Montcalm; 514- 522-7747), urban chic decor, two and three-room suites with private bath, community room with fireplace where four-course breakfast is served, free gym passes.

Two hours west of Montreal, the Inn on Somerset (282 Somerset St, W Ottawa; 613-236-9309), simple getaways, complete gay wedding packages, romping or resting; custom beds have reputation as among the best, and host, George, takes special pride in them.

Nightlife - bars, clubs, cabarets

Bars: Strippers
In Montreal, dancers strip down to the bare essentials, and hard-ons are permitted. Lap dances are fine in secluded lounges.

Campus (1111 Ste-Catherine E) a world-favorite with buff guys who strip for men daily 3pm-3am (except Sunday for women), with dimly lit VIP private section.

Stock (1171 Ste-Catherine E) shower shows, large VIP lounge, two backrooms, seven nights. Women's night on Wednesdays. See website for photos and live feed of performances.

JP Cabaret (1681 Ste-Catherine E) replaced Bar Adonis, slender to buff nude male strippers, men and women audience.

Taboo (1950 De Maisonneuve E), nude male stripper bar known for lithesome-look dancers, reopened November 2011.

Bars: Leather, bears

Aigle Noir | Black Eagle (1315 Ste-Catherine E) leather, rubber, kink and fetish men's bar, pool table, intense murals.

Katakombes (1450 Ste-Catherine E), new men-only levi/leather/fetish bar, open nightly to 3am, events, pool table, DJ dancefloor.

Stud (1812, Ste-Catherine E) men-only bar favored by bears and leathermen but friendly to all guys. Dancing, wide music variety, theme nights, non-stop sex videos.

Bars: Drag

Cabaret Cleo (1230 St-Laurent) real-girl strippers at street level, and drag shows on the second floor.

Cabaret Mado (1115 Ste-Catherine E) the campiest drag shows in Montreal, seven nights a week.

Bars: Other

Club Date (1218 Ste-Catherine E) popular piano and karaoke bar with diverse crowd.

Cocktail (1669 Ste-Catherine E) lounge & karaoke bar, amateurs and performers in drag, games.

Gotha (1641 Amherst) mixed gay/straight, Anglo/Francophone crowd, cozy cocktail lounge, fireplace, local art, below Aubergell B&B rooms, summer patio.

Le Drugstore (1360 Ste-Catherine E) large multi-level complex, open patios, pool tables, weekend dancing, drag shows, women's favorite Village venue.

Relaxe (1309 Ste-Catherine) unassuming local pub with pool tables and older crowd.

Rocky (1673 Ste-Catherine E) older locals' neighborhood bar, pool table, all-day erotic male videos, karoake nights.

Royal Phoenix (5788 Boul St-Laurent), in hip/queer Mile End neighborhood, mixed gay/straight men/women crowd, terrace bar/restaurant, dancing, live music, comedy; relaxed, fun vibe.

Studio Backstage (1661 Ste-Catherine E), mixed crowd "artist hangout."

Dance clubs

Circus (917, Ste-Catherine E) mixed 18-plus after-hours dance club, three rooms of house-urban-techno-trance music til the sun comes up.

Club Bolo (2093, rue de la Visitation), Friday and Sunday country music club, line dancing lessons, monthly Saturday special nights (closed the Sunday after).

Club Unity Montreal (1171 Ste-Catherine E) city's largest gay dance club in three rooms, international DJs, mixed mix, live shows.

Parking (1296 Amherst) big dance club, young/mixed, gayest Friday/Saturday shirtless crowd, special events; Hip Hop, Tribal House and Latin music: warm-weather terrace.

Sky (1474 Ste-Catherine E), popular three-level dance complex, gay/straight, young/old; drag cabaret, pub, roof terrace with Jacuzzi and outdoor pool.

Stereo (858 Ste-Catherine E), mixed gay/straight after-hours dance club goes all night until noon the next morning, top-class DJs.

Red Lite (1755 Lierre), big, impressive after-hours dance club in Laval, mostly straight but gayest on Sundays.

Circuit parties

Bad Boys Club Montreal (Bbcm.org) series of circuit parties include: Hot & Dry; Twist Weekend; Black & Blue Weekend; Bal des Boys Weekend, and Red Weekend. See the website for dates.

Saunas
Bath house heaven, Montreal has more pleasure palaces than anywhere else in North America. Facilities usually include dry saunas, steam rooms, hot tubs, massage rooms,labyrinths, porn lounges, snack bars, and towel-clad cruising.

Bain Colonial (963 Colonial) old-fashioned style in the Plateau with natural stone steam system, three saunas, massage, videos/TV, patios, private rooms, mature clientele.

G.I. Joe Sauna (1166 Ste-Catherine E) big leather guys, rooms, hot tub, snack bar, dry and wet saunas.

Sauna 243 (243 Boul des Laurentides, Laval), sauna, video/TV lounge, glory holes, cabins and rooms, blackout area.

Sauna 1286 (1286, Ch Chambly, Longueuil), three floors of rooms, suites, sauna/steam, whirlpool, student discounts.

Sauna 3481 (3481 Montée St-Hubert), steam/sauna on Montreal south shore in Saint-Hubert, massage, Jacuzzi, cinema auditiorium, glory holes, sex toy sales, snack bar.

Sauna 5018 (5018 St-Laurent) terrace, massages, porn cinema, popular with students, in the Plateau.

Sauna Centre-ville (1465 Ste-Catherine E) in the Village on two levels. Room specials and long-term stays welcome.

Sauna Du Plateau (961 Rachel E) summer rooftop terrace, labyrinth, "hotel"rooms.

Sauna Oasis (1390 Ste-Catherine E) very popular, Village dry and steam sauna, open 24/7, porn movies, Nude Monday, Thursday foam parties.

Sauna St-Hubert (6527 St-Hubert) small alternative sauna with bisexual and transsexual crowd, popular "lingerie Tuesdays."

Restaurants

Many of the following places are popular for dejuner (breakfast), diner (lunch) and souper (supper). In Montreal it is customary to provide separate bills for each person but waiters will generally ask first.

Bato Thai (1310 Ste-Catherine E) good Thai, large portions, easy on the wallet.

Cafe Depot (1800 Ste-Catherine E) central, late-night coffee and sandwiches, free WiFi.

Cafe Europeen (1560 Ste-Catherine E) North American fare, poutine, pizza, patio tables.

Chez Cora Dejeuner (1017 Ste-Catherine E) fabulous breakfast, fruit bowl.

Club Sandwich (1570 Ste-Catherine E) over 60 different sandwiches, tasty breakfast, poutine (gravy on french fries and cheese -- local staple).

Le Commensal (1720 St-Denis) gourmet veggie and vegan buffets, one of seven area locations.

DSens (1330 Ste-Catherine E) French bistro cuisine, elegant setting, weekend brunch.

EstAsie Restaurant (1320 Ste-Catherine E) East Asian food, stylish decor.

Folies En Vrac (1368 Ste-Catherine E) nicely priced made-to-order sandwiches.

Le Gout du Viet Nam (1389 Ste-Catherine E) a trip to Saigon.

Kilo Cafe (1495 Ste-Catherine E) hangout with sandwiches, cake, great cheesecake.

Liquid Nutrition (1303 Ste-Catherine E) smoothies, healthy snacks.

La Perle de l'Extreme Orient (1350 Ste- Catherine E) fine Vietnamese dining.

Planete (1451 Ste-Catherine E) global cuisine, exotic cocktails like Up Uranus and I'm Your Venus.

Resto du Village (1310 Wolfe) cozy 24-hour gay restaurant, poutine, pudding Chomeur, big portions, reasonable prices.

Saloon (1333, Ste-Catherine E) gay restaurant, Western theme, salad, pizza, grilled meats and fish.

Second Cup (1351 Ste-Catherine E) nationwide coffeehouse chain, tea, lots of eye contact Village locale.

Starbucks (1301 Ste-Catherine E) for a caffeinated buzz, sandwiches, cake and muffins.

Strega (1477 Ste-Catherine E) pasta heaven, rave reviews, good prices.

Tabla Restaurant (1329 Ste-Catherine E) Bangladeshi-Indian fare, vegetarian, meat and seafood.

Shopping & services

Fetiche Armada (1201 Ste-Catherine E), leather, rubber, underwear, sports gear, toys, Mr B products, sex shop.

Priape (1311 Ste-Catherine E) casual clothing, underwear, beachwear, leather gear, toys, video DVDs, books, magazines.

Physotech Plus (1657 Amherst) exclusively male. Massage, hair styling,tanning, skin care, laser hair removal.

Wega Complex (930 Ste-Catherine E) the porn place, with peep shows, movies,merchandise.

Dollarama (911 Ste-Catherine E) bargains for a buck.

SAQ (1250 Ste-Catherine E) affordable connoisseur booze.

Gyms

Nautilus Plus (1431 Saint Andre) and energie- Cardio (845 Ste-Catherine E) each offer daily, weekly, monthly memberships.