French cuisine stands atop the world and Paris sits at the center. Not only the native food, this city wants to experience all the others too, so every culture and tradition is represented, often in neighborhood clusters. You'd never have time to try them all, and naming the "best" Paris restaurant is pointless, so choose one with great people-watching and lots of locals, or see our listings for some tips. Above Les Halles, remarkable cafes and restaurants sit amid venders selling flowers, fresh bread and pastries, fish and fowl, and fruits and vegetables. Open-air market stalls are set up on Thursday afternoons and Sunday mornings on rue Montmartre just beyond the grand terraces of corner brasseries. On rue Montorgueil the epiceries, or grocers, resemble boutiques in quality and abundance. Even at the center, a few euros will buy a seat at a splendid terrace sidewalk cafe for coffee, conversation, or merely watching street life. After a spurge or two for truly memorable meals, you can save by sampling the abundance of inexpensive street fare, from sidewalk crepes to delicious brasserie omelets and quiches, to fresh sandwiches on crusty bread from the ubiquitous bakeries. Also check out the Asian take-outs and Middle-Eastern fast food. These can more than sustain you for amazingly little cost.
For a day trip to one of the better restaurants outside Paris, La Mare au Diable is not far from the castle at Vaux-le-Vicomt up the Seine. This was a haven for leading French artists. writers, poets, painters and sculptors who gave the best of their talents to the abiding glory of this place. The restaurant, formal but in a rustic country setting, has four salons and a garden terrace; serving traditional French Cuisine to rank with the best you'll find. Not cheap, but worth every Euro cent. See their menu online. Located at the Farm of Plessis Picard, Route D 306, 77550 REAU. Phone: 33(0)1-6410-2090. Lamareaudiable.fr











