Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta is Mexico's most popular gay destination, bar none. The seaside getaway on the country's west coast is a magnet for gay tourists from all over North America, but especially those on the west coast of the US, since most cities are a quick flight away.
The city's gay evolution began just over 20 years ago. That's when Paco Ruiz opened his namesake gay nightclub, Club Paco Paco. At the time, there was only one other gay bar in town. Despite being arrested three times, Ruiz refused to be intimidated by the police harassment. Eventually the media attention and public sympathy that followed created a friendlier environment for his and other gay businesses.
Today Puerto Vallarta has about 20 gay bars and nightclubs and more than a dozen gay hotels and bed-and-breakfasts.

 

Neighborhoods

Zona Romantica. Almost all the gay businesses are located in the south end of the city in a historic district called the Zona Romantica. Everything is easily walkable in this quaint, cobblestoned part of town.
El Centro. This is the city's downtown, located just north of the Zona Romantica on the other side of the Cuale River. Although some refer to the Zona Romantica as the "Old Town," El Centro is older. El Centro is home to three gay bars and a gay B&B.
The Hotel Zone. This is the area north of downtown where you'll find most of the modern high-rise hotels. Unless you are desperate to redeem points at a chain hotel, you'll be better off staying in Zona Romantica or El Centro.

 

Getting here

The Puerto Vallarta Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Airport is just north of the hotel zone. A cab ride from the airport to the Zona Romantica is usually $20 to $25, but you can save about $5 or $10 by walking across the pedestrian bridge and taking one of the cabs lined up on the other side of the road. Diana's Tours offers a pickup service. For $20, a driver will whisk a group of up to three travelers to their hotel.

Puerto Vallarta is in the same state of Jalisco as Guadalajara, just over five hours away by car or coach. ETN (website in English), one of several companies offering modern inter-city coach service, some with WiFi access, with eleven daily round-trips between the two cities.

 

Getting around

Unless you plan to do a lot of driving outside of the city, don't rent a car. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, although you should agree on a fare before you get inside. Pay in Mexican pesos for a better rate. It's not customary to tip taxi drivers, although locals often round up the fare. Most Americans tip anyway, which is why taxi drivers are so eager to pick up Americans.

Buses run north and south for those who want to explore further out, and renting a Jeep or Volkswagen convertible is easy and affordable. Most hotels have excellent concierge service and can point you in the right direction. Looking for a day on a secluded beach? There are many local fishing boats you can charter to take you across the bay. Ask your concierge to recommend one.

 

What to see & do

It's always warm enough to swim in Puerto Vallarta, so, not surprisingly, the beach is the city's most popular attraction. Puerto Vallarta's unofficial gay beach is the Blue Chairs Beach. It's on the southern end of Los Muertos beach, directly in front of the Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea. A second, smaller gay beach sprung up over a year ago in front of the Blue Seas Beachfront Resort and Spa, just a few minutes' walk north of Blue Chairs Beach.
Be sure to walk along the Malecon: that's the boardwalk that runs from the north end of Zona Romantica, over the Cuale River and into downtown Puerto Vallarta. Interesting sculptures (including incredible sand sculptures) dot the Malecon once you reach downtown. Sculptures of the famous dolphin and the arches that are symbolic of Puerto Vallarta are across from the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the city's best-known landmark.
If you take a stroll up the hill behind the church, you will find the famous pink Puente del Amor. The "love bridge" connected the mansions once occupied by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. The address is 445 Calle Zaragoza.

Dance the night away: Nightlife starts late here, so don't expect to see anyone in the city's big gay dance clubs before midnight.
Mix it up: Mexicans love Americans and Canadians, and vice versa, and gay people in Puerto Vallarta speak enough English to get by, so don't worry if you only speak the international language of love.
Shop on water: An island in the middle of the Cuale River includes a long stretch of shops where you can buy souvenirs and more artsy-fartsy stuff from local artisans.
Eat outside: It's almost never cold, so dine at one of the many sidewalk, beachfront and rooftop restaurants, and don't be afraid to eat like the locals at sidewalk taco stands.

 

Organize your day

Area gay nightlife offers a wide variety of restaurants, clubs, bars, and martini lounges, most in the Zona Romantica. The scene starts relatively late, then continues at some locations until 8am. To follow local custom, take an afternoon siesta before heading out for a busy night of dinner, drinks, shows and dancing. Among the many shows are comedy routines, and drag and stripper shows. The Olvas Altas sidewalk cafes and bars, close by the beach, provide a particularly pleasant place to stroll in late afternoons and early evenings. Later, the scene moves to the late-night spots further in. Take care when leaving the clubs late -- travel in groups or have the club call a cab.

 

Local media and resources

Be sure to pick up Gay Guide Vallarta when you get into town. It's written mostly in English and includes a handy gay map.
Discovery Vallarta is another good source for up to date local gay information. Foodies will want to pick up Beck's Best, Puerto Vallarta's Restaurant Guide, written by a gay guy, Gary Beck.

For more mainstream general news, listings and directions see the websites  BanderasNews, Virtual Vallarta, VallartaOnline, or PuertoVallarta.net

For business listings with locations and websites see our Vallarta maps & listings pages. For other Mexican cities see Calcun, Guadelajara, Mexico City, and Tijuana.

Speaking in tongues

Most locals speak some English, so getting along without Spanish is possible. But it's always appreciated when the effort is made to speak the local language and a few phrases can go a long way.

 

In focus:

Cruising, Puerto Vallarta style
For 10 years and counting, Diana DeCoste has led gays and lesbians on tours of Puerto Vallarta's Banderas Bay. Her boat trips attract a mix of men and women, but the vast majority of the cruisers are gay men.
"I like to go to bed with women, but I can't make money off them," says DeCoste with her trademark cackling laugh that punctuates her tours.
Diana's Tours runs daylong catamaran excursions that depart every Thursday morning from Los Muertos Pier, two blocks north of the Blue Chairs Beach. Look for the boat flying the rainbow flag.
The first stop on the tour is usually Los Arcos, a local landmark just south of Puerto Vallarta. Los Arcos, which means "the arches" in Spanish, refers to three giant hollowed-out rock formations large enough for some small boats to navigate. (When you see arches used to symbolize Puerto Vallarta, they refer to these natural wonders.)
The swim-through rock formations rank as Puerto Vallarta's most popular snorkeling stop. Tropical fish, including angelfish and damselfish, dart in and out of the crevices, making for a colorful show. No need to bring your own snorkeling gear, as Diana's Tours takes care of that.
After Los Arcos, the tour makes another stop at a private beach complete with a walking trail and waterfall. That's followed by lunch at a restaurant onshore.
"Now that you are all here," DeCoste often says, as her guests take their seats, "please listen very closely to this 90-
minute time-share presentation."
She laughs, and everyone instantly gets the inside joke. Travelers are besieged by people selling time-share properties in Puerto Vallarta, starting when they arrive at the airport.
After the cruise, DeCoste invites all her guests to enjoy a free drink and some male strippers at an after-party at the Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea's rooftop bar. The total charge for the day is $80 per person.

DeCoste's success has lead to competition. PVRPV (Pvrpv.com) runs all-day gay cruises that include everything except the after-party. The boat sails Fridays from Los Muertos Pier and costs $70 per person.

Yet another company, GayLine PV (Gaylinepv.com), offers adventures and tours out on and about on Banderas Bay, with an office at Francisca Rodríguez 160.

If you're interested in whale watching, openly gay oceanographer Oscar Frey runs one of the most respected whale watching tours in Puerto Vallarta, Ocean Friendly Tours. While his clients are mostly straight, his tours are very gay-friendly. The four-to-five-hour excursion costs $95 per person, including beverages, snacks and lunch. Whale watching season runs from early December to mid-March.

 

Accommodations

Overlooking the bay, just a block from the beach, Abbey Hotel (Pulpito 138, Olas Altas; 52-322-222-4488), four-star gay facility with 55 rooms and suites, a massage spa, pool, and open-air restaurant.

Amaca Hotel (Pino Suarez 583; 52-322-223-0277) 22 upscale rooms, adult only boutique hotel catering to gay and lesbian guests, rooftop Sky bar on two terrace levels, small dipping pool

The legendary Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea (Malecon 4, Playa Los Muertos; US/Canada 888-302-3662), one of the world's best known gay hotels, wildly popular beachside restaurant at gay beach. Their popular rooftop patio/bar has nightly shows, and their staff will book local tours and day trips.

Blue Seas (Malecon 1; US/Canada 813-855-0190), gay luxury beach-front hotel of suites, beach club and spa with gym, a restaurant and nightly events in the their cocktail lounge.

Boana-Torre Malibu Hotel (Amapas 325, 52-322-222- 0999), short walk from beach, units include bedroom, two baths, kitchen & salon with water-facing balcony, a romantic pool, and tours can be booked here. Budget rooms at Boana 2 start at $35; and at Casa Benito B&B, $55 rates include access to pool and other facilities of the main hotel.

Casa Benito B&B (Amapas 325; 52-322-222- 0999). Host Benoit offers rooms with baths in three-level house, with full access to large Boana Torre Malibu pool next door and small rooftop terrace with small pool.

Casa Cupula (129 Callejon de la Igualdad; 52-322-223-2484), close to beach, restaurants, cafes, luxurious, stylish and intimate, with gourmet food, tempting cocktails, two pools & gym.

Casa Vallarta (Rinconada de las Conchas Chinas 101; 202-465-4398), micro B&B hospitality, suites for singles and couples, peaceful, pristine hillside villa, spectacular views, open year-round.

Gay-owned and staffed, Hotel Mercurio (Francisca Rodriguez 168; 52-322-222-4793), 28 rooms, good location, outstanding service and value, gourmet breakfast, plus a romantic indoor pool with a popular happy hour for drinks attracting guests, visitors and locals.

San Franciscan Resort & Gym (Pilitas 213; 52-322-222-6473), boutique hotel luxury at affordable prices. Also features a gym and a comedy club.

Vallarta Cora (Pilitas 174; 52-322-222-6234), men-only hotel where the socializing is easy at their busy bar, or at the Jacuzzi. This attitude-free haven has a backroom, bar, clothing-optional area and a private sun terrace too.

Vallarta Shores (Malecon 400; US/Canada 800-228-4552), boutique hotel in heart Romantica Zone gay area, on Los Muertos Beach. Three-levels, 10 suites, 1 to 3 bedrooms; balconies, living areas, and bedrooms with ocean vistas.

For more listings of area lodgings, locations and web links,  see our full map & listings section.

 

Restaurants and Cafes

Archie's Wok (Francisca Rodriguez 130) blends Thai, Chinese and Filipino cuisines, with subtle sauces at reasonable prices.

Bario Sur (Pulpito 122) international Latin cuisine in beautiful garden setting, with take-out options next to the Abbey Hotel.

Bistro Balsamar (Francisca Rodriguez 155, upstairs) authentic regional Mexican cuisine, breakfast, lunch and dinner, full bar and wine selections, and bird's eye view of Olas Altas.

Boca Bento at Casa Iguana Hotel (5 de Mayo 455) bar and grill, combines Latin and Asian flavors with entrees such as Yellowfish Sashimi, Tuna Tartare and Achiote Miso Sea Bass with Cilantro Chard.

Cafe Bohemio (Rodolfo Gomez 127), patio bar and bistro offers romantic outdoor dining from hosts Chris and Sol with an Mexican and International menu. Two daily two-for-one happy hours (5 to 7pm, and 11pm to midnight.

Cafe des Artistes (Guadalupe Sanchez 740) Mexican and French cuisine, formal and elegant setting of art works and lush gardens, piano music.

Cafe Oro Verde (Juarez 728, upstairs), good coffee, casual bohmemian vibe, deli sandwiches.

Cafe San Angel (Olas Altas 449), crepes, sandwiches, fruit smoothies, breakfast, couches, sidewalk tables; also Mexican nachos, burritos and enchiladas.

Coco's Tropical (Manuel M Dieguez, the beach at Olvas Altas), European and Mexican food from a Swiss chef. Great sunset views from beachfront terrace.

Chez Elena at Hotel Los Cuatro Vientos (Guadalupe Sanchez 740), atop hill above Malacon in old colonial building, part of the old Vallarta of Liz and Richard days; small restaurant, big reputation and fine cuisine.

Coffee Cup (Rodolfo Gomez 146), for first or last coffee of the day (try their soy chi latte), breakfast. For locals and travelers, an easy-to-make-friends spot with internet access.

Cybersmoothie Cafe (Rodolfo Gomez 111, local 3), fruit, yogurt and protein shakes, check the email, 9am to 10pm on their machine, or yours with WiFi access.

Fuego (Amapas 147), contemporary Mexican and International cuisine, stylish, comfortable settings and affable staff. Breakfast at ground level, lunch and dinner upstairs. Great corner for people watching while munching chocolate frozen bananas.

Le Bistro (Isla Cuale 16) is an elegant jazz cafe with excellent service amid lush and beautiful surroundings by the river, serving International and Mexican cuisine.

Lido Beach Club (Malecon 167), beachside restaurant-bar, breakfast, lunch; soup, sandwiches, homemade pasta, salads, meat, fish and seafood on the menu.

Page in the Sun Cafe (Olas Altas at Manuel Dieguez), cafe and coffee shop, pastries, bagels, baguettes, pies; English-language used bookstore, sidewalk tables, 7:30am to 11:30pm.

Pie in the Sky (Lazaro Cardenas 247), pastries, cakes and chocolates, coffee specialties, WiFi access.

Planeta Vegetariano (Iturbide 270), central, inexpensive all-you-can-eat vegetarian lunch buffet, also breakfast and dinner.

The Swedes Bar & Bistro (Pulpito 154), gay Nordic couple serve great Colleens Breakfast Cafe fare, plus their own bistro menu with Swedish specialties.

The Sweet Desire Cake Studio (Lazaro Cardenas 234) sells really good, high quality cakes and pastries for special occasions, or just for treats.

Trattoria Michel (Olas Altas 507) owner/chef Michel Ferrari uses only freshest fish, game and meat in traditional Italian cuisine. Fine wines, fantastic sunsets.

For locations and web links to all hotels, restaurants and bars, plus more Vallarta restaurants, see our full map & listings tab.

 

Going out

Amor Bar (Lazaro Cardenas 271), new martini and cocktails bar, DJ music, nightly to 4am.

Anonimo (Rodolfo Gomez 157), small bar off Olas Altas, good drinks prices, easy conversations.

Antropology (Morelos 101, Plaza Rio, Zona Centro), north across the bridge, men-only "gentlemen's club," the study of man, non-stop nude male dancers, 9pm to 4am, good-looking staff.

Apaches (Olas Altas 439) restaurant and bar, gay, straight, lesbian, and artist types congregate at sidewalk tables chatting.

Blue Sunset Rooftop (Malecon 4, Playa Los Muertos), on Blue Chairs Resort roof. Popular nightly events include Sunday & Wednesday "Dirty Bitches, and Thursday & Saturday male strippers.

CC Slaughters (Lazaro Cardenas 254), new remodeled nightclub and cocktail lounge, dancing, drag shows., old Mariachi Loco site.

Club Manana (Venustiano Carranza 290), bar complex, drag shows, theme parties, international comedy routines, pool; fully-nude male strippers for men-only at their adjacent Club Tease.

Diva's (Francisco Madero 388), intimate cantina neighborhood bar, popular with local gay expats and Mexicans, especially for happy hours.

Frida (Insurgentes 301) cozy "only authentic alternative cantina," inexpensive drinks, meals include Wednesday spaghetti specials. Opens from 1pm downstairs; balcony from 7pm for cocktails and people watching.

Garbo (Pulpito 142), gay piano bar, live jazz, regulars meet for cocktails before the clubs.

Maganza Spa (Hidalgo 266), downtown men-only sauna, jacuzzi, steam room, pool, gym, massage, restaurant and bar, weekends until midnight.

La Miseria (Lozaro Cardenas 267-D), unpretentious cantina, inexpensive drinks, open until 2am, a great place to relax before the serious partying begins.

La Noche (Lozaro Cardenas 257-263), quiet conversational lounge club subdued atmosphere lighting/music, usually packed to overflowing early and upscale crowd, locals and tourists spill into the street. 

Los Amigos (Venustiano Carranza 239), friendly upstairs gay cantina with terrace next door to Paco's. No cover, inexpensive drinks.

No Borders (Libertad 221), cowboy theme cantina bar with popular bingo nights.

Paco's Ranch (Ignacio L Vallarta 237), new evolution of Paco Paco, one of Puerto Vallarta's first gay clubs, new location between Roxy's and Liquid, dancing and drag shows, open nightly until 6am.

Palm (Olas Altas 508), martinis, cabaret, disco club, entertainment singers and comedy inside, street terrace seating.

Picante/ Kox (Ingacio L Vallarta 244-264), hot nightspot, two levels, dance club upstairs, ground level lounge with restaurant, weekend drag shows, go-go boys, salsa shows.

Reinas (510 Olas Altas), new bar, music videos, films, conversation, Dutch hospitality.

Sama (Olas Altas 510), chic, elegant martini and video lounge, white leather seating, sidewalk patio. Famous for appletini and chocolate martinis by owner Jose.

Vallarta Cora (Pilitas 174), hotel club, heated pool, bar, patio, gay porn videos, men-only clothing-optional Jacuzzi and steam room, popular with younger gay Mexicans.

Wet Dreams (Lazaro Cardenas), new men-only strip club, guys in the showers, or doing pole in the backroom, intimate VIP lounge for intimacy, open 'til 4am at former Encuentros location.

Shopping & services

Blue Massage Spa (Olas Altas 411) a personal refuge for total relaxation. Walk-ins welcome, and home service available.

Cassandra Shaw Jewelry (Basilio Badillio 276), an elegant store with original handcrafted designs in the art of bijoux.

Christopher Wynn Designs (Pulpito 146) with treasures from all over Mexico -- an interior designer's delight.

Ciber Milenium (Francisco Madero 374; and Libertad 335), computer access, low rates, fax, scanner, games, air-conditioning.

Condom House (Lazaro Cardenas 239) the name says it all, with lots of selection, and lubes too.

Galeria Omar Alonso (Leona Vicario 249) gay-owned art gallery with modern and antique Latin photography, sculpture and more.

Galeria Sol y Luna (Lozaro Cardenas 230), art for the uninhibited, with erotic and exotic male form by international artists such as Randy Cooper, Victor Vera, Abraham Jorge, and others.

Liquid Men (Ignacio L. Vallarta 245 and Basilio Badillo 222) with Diesel and hot Mexican designs: beach attire, fashion or club wear.

PVRPV (Francisca Rodriguez 152), a vacation rental and concierge service. Book for gay cruises aboard comfortable, classic sailboats for a day of music and good food.

SeaMe Sunglasses (Amapas 114-B) for designer sunnies from the all over the globe.

Tropicasa Realty (Pulpito 145-A; 52-322-222-6505), superb service for those who crave their own little piece of paradise.

God and the Toltec king Quetzalcoatl brought chocolate to the Aztecs. Xocodiva Artisan Chocolates (Rodolfo Gomez 111) will send you to heaven with divine hand-crafted confections.

 

Safety warning

The beaches along Banderas Bay are warm and inviting, even at night. But it is not recommended to be on the beach past sunset. The government is strict about enforcing the curfew. Be cautious with drug use or pickups, too. Accepting a solicitation for drugs or sex on the street could land you in a tight spot.