St. Croix, USVI

The largest of the United States Virgin Islands, St. Croix is 82 square miles of green fringed by endless white beaches. Of the string of islands belonging to the US, St. Croix is neither the most cosmopolitan (that distinction goes to St Thomas) nor the most unspoiled (St John is mostly a national park), but for many visitors it is the best of both worlds. In 1493 Columbus named these islands, both the now British and US groups, Santa Ursula y las Once Mil Vírgenes (Saint Ursula and 11,000 Virgins) -- later shortened to Las Vírgenes. Santa Cruz was, and still is, the island's Spanish name.

St. Croix is the least visited of the three major American islands, which is part of its draw. There are few sprawling resorts, meaning most of the accommodations are intimate places where the staff gets to know you by name. It doesn't have rainbow flags on every business, but it does offer a friendly welcome to visitors of all sexual orientations. Guide named St. Croix one of the most gay-friendly Caribbean islands in 2009.

The island has two major towns, both named after Danish kings: Christiansted and Frederiksted. Denmark ruled here for almost two centuries, between buying the island from the French in 1733, and selling it in 1917 to the US --along with St Thomas and St John. The other two had been Danish from 1672. Each island has a distinct personality, so most visitors try to get a taste of each one. The sights range from rum distilleries, to the ruins of plantation houses, to nature preserves --both on land and underwater.

There are beautiful beaches all over St Croix, but one of the most popular is Dorscht Beach in Frederiksted, with its crystalline water, small waves and unbelievable sunset views. And you're likely to run into other gay travelers here.

 

Getting here

Located 13 miles from Christiansted, Henry E Rholsen Airport is the main gateway to St. Croix. Although there are a few direct flights from the US, most require a connection in Miami, St Thomas or San Juan, Puerto Rico. US citizens do not need a passport on arrival from the American mainland. Cars may be rented at the airport, or waiting taxis will take you to your hotel. The fare is posted inside every cab.

Seaborne Airlines still flies seaplanes with water take-offs and landings between the harbors of Christiansted, St Croix, and Charlotte Amale, St Thomas. The service is very downtown-convenient, and the close-up views are great from such low-altitudes.

VI Seatrans scheduled ferry service between Charlotte Amalie and Christiansted is set to resume in spring 2012. The Road Town Fast Ferry will get you from Charlotte Amalie, to Roadtown, Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands.

Frederiksted is a port of call for Holland America and Royal Caribbean cruise ships arriving at St Croix, and duty free allowances are generous at $1,600 per person. Taxis will get you to Christiansted and there are island tours on offer. Check with your cruise line or see St Croix Tourism/Cruise.

 

Getting around

Unlike many of the other nearby islands, much of St. Croix is relatively flat. It even has a four-lane highway that makes cross-island jaunts a breeze if you have a rental car. Remember that cars drive on the left side of the road, as in Britain and Australia (and the British Virgin Islands) - but most cars have American-side steering wheels, making passing tricky on back roads. There is Vitran bus sevice every two hours between the two towns, plus other routes around the island. See VINow for travel information.

Olympic Rent-a-Car and Judi of Croix are gay-friendly local car rental companies. If you plan to stay in one of the towns, a rental car is not a necessity. But using taxis to get around can wind up being very pricey.

 

Towns

Christiansted: on the northern coast, dominated by a huge yellow fort dating from the 18th century. It's not the oldest building, however. The original post office and town hall were built in the century before Danish times.

Frederiksted: the second-largest town is less commercially busy, but also has a fort, and plantations dating from when the island was covered with sugarcane fields. There are a couple of interesting museums and a waterfront park where you can join the locals for a late-afternoon stroll. Beautiful beaches are nearby, as well as windy forested highland roads just to the north.

 

What to do

There are plenty of places to get away from the crowds, but a favorite is Buck Island. The beaches of this off-island are lovely, but don't miss the chance to snorkel among the rocky coral populated by huge schools of colorful fish. Most charter companies make their way to this nature preserve, located about five miles north of St. Croix. Big Beard's, and Caribbean Sea Adventures, are two popular options.
If you're into scuba diving, there are plenty of eye-popping dive sites just off the coast. St Croix Ultimate Bluewater Adventures  is a gay-friendly company.
If you'd rather stay on top of the water, sea kayaking is a great way to explore the Salt River, the spot where Christopher Columbus first set foot in the New World. St. Croix Kayak takes you on guided tours through the Salt River Bay National Historic Park and its brilliant green mangrove forests. Gecko's has ATV tours of the hilly rainforest region of the West End.

 

Media and resources

The Virgin Islands Daily News is the local paper. St Croix Tourism and GoToStCroix are useful general information websites.

 

Currency and Money

St. Croix is part of the U.S. Virgin Islands, so the dollar rules.

 

Accommodations

Down the beach from Frederiksted center, Sand Castle On The Beach Hotel & Resort (127 Smithfield; 800-524-2018) is a complex of deluxe suites, each with living room, bedroom, bath, kitchenette, private patio; some with ocean view. There are two pools, and sun deck overlooking beach. Gay men who predominate in season, mixi easily with straight couples. Their weekend seaside Beach Cafe restaurant has live music.

Next door, Cottages by the Sea (127a Smithfield Rd; 340-772-0495) has private beachside cottages, fully equipped kitchens and all amenities. The two guesthouses share Dorsch Beach, one of best swimming beaches on island, with clear, sparkling water, and no big waves. It's like a big warm ocean lake, and the sun sets into the water horizon here.

In Christiansted near Five Corners, Hibiscus Beach Resort (4131 La Grande Princesse; 340-772-0495) is an everyone-friendly seaside resort with a popular restaurant, Elizabeth's at H2O.

Palms at Pelican Cove (4126 La Grande Princesse; 800-548-4460), beautiful palm-studded setting, deluxe units steps from the water. Formerly the Cormorant Beach Club, now mainly family-oriented with new owners, but gay-friendly still.

Other local resort options include:
Carambola Beach Resort & Spa (Kings Hill; 888-503-8760) on secluded cove, pristine beach west of Christiansted, beyond which the coastline turns steep and wild. They have a bar, restaurant, live entertainment, fitness center and tennis courts. Carambola Golf & Country Club (72 Estate River, Kings Hill; 340-778-5638) nearby is the expert 18-hole course, open to the general public.

Divi Carina Bay (5025 Estate Turner Hole, Christiansted; 877-773-9700) beach resort on quiet coast, beachfront guestrooms, deluxe hillside suites, casino, activities center, spa, poolside pizza shop, and candle-lit buffet dining at Starlight Grille.

 

Restaurants, bars, etc

The Blue Moon (17 Strand, Frederiksted), delicious food and drinks, indoors or out, popular Sunday brunch, Wednesday and Friday live jazz music, mix of locals and tourists.

The Domino Club (Route 76, Mt Pelier, up-coast from Frederiksted), Caldonia Rainforest rum shack, road flanked with massive mahogany trees, real local ambience (and can-crushing, beer-drinking pigs). Potent spice-honey-rum Mamajuana drinks, home-cooked Trinidadian food. A smoothie stand near here will satisfy sweet, fruity cravings.

Polly's at the Pier (3 Strand, Frederiksted) coffeeshop, internet cafe, free WiFi, art gallery, smoothies and milkshakes. Loca ice-cream, local organic eggs. Caribbean libations, micro-brew beer, soups, sandwiches hot and cold, wraps and tapas from Steve and Seth, with Polly, (the mascot dog). Fine imported cigars too.

The Sunset Grille (Estate William, Frederiksted), open daily, Sunday brunch, West Indian-Infused Island cuisine at water's edge on Sprat Hall Beach, sunset views. Highly recommended by locals, food prepared with fresh local ingredients by Dominican chef Miss Jules.

Turtles Deli (37 Strand; Prince Passage, Fredericksted), eat in, or take-out to the beach.

West End Grill (330 King St, Frederiksted) Debby, Amy and family operated, over 30 years. Lunch Tuesdays through Fridays until 4pm, mouth-watering home-style island specialties, big portions, pork, fried chicken, fresh fish or mac & cheese, fabulous sandwiches, smoothies, and picnic fare.

 

Real Estate

Chances are, once you've visited, you'll plan to return. Thinking of longer term rentals or perhaps moving here? St Croix Tourism has the basic information, plus listings of agencies that handle properties, including beach condos and vacation villas.